Wednesday, August 28, 2013

The meat and potatoes!

Hello again friends,

Let me start with a peculiar observation from this afternoon.  After work we decided to stop by La Coquille for take out dinner.  As we waited for our meal to arrive, I observed the "guardien" from the restaurant chatting with the guardien of the neighboring business.  What was interesting was the fact that they were both wearing designer shirts! Now, whether or not they were knock offs I couldn't say, but one of them had a light blue big pony polo shirt and the other had a Gucci shirt. 

Since so much has happened since the last post, I decided to group them by subject to give you a better rundown.  So, speaking of restaurants,  we went to View, La Reserve, Quartier Latin, Barak, and Kenscoff.  View is located on the top floor of the Belvedere building in Pétion-Ville.  It was a hot spot for a while about a year ago but now I guess it's not as fashionable.  In any case, it's definitely a must see.  The view from so high is breathtaking as you can see the whole capital at your feet!  The service was exemplary with very well trained servers who anticipated your every whim, and took care of you while being unnoticeable.  The food itself, or whatever we tried was scrumptious.  Instead of bread or rolls, we received a sample dish with a hot roll, a tomato bruschetta, some kind of beef ragout on a tiny spoon, and a banane pesée with pikliz.  For the main dish, we ordered a mixed grill plate with white rice.  It had sausage, chicken, beef, lamb and pork grilled to perfection.  We also ordered the Mediterranean sample which included tabouleh, flat bread, two kinds of hummus, kibby, kefta, beef and chicken kabobs, and another cheesy pastry whose name escapes me.  The tabouleh was so perfectly juicy and lemony that I dipped everything in it and nearly licked my fingers at the fancy restaurant!
La Reserve was beautiful and had a nice vibe.  Located in Berthé, Pétion-Ville, it is a gem in the middle of a lush tropical garden.  The night we went there, in the rear garden, there was an event.  A couple was celebrating their ten year anniversary.  The set up would rival any event in the U.S. with table linens, chair covers and sash, gorgeous tropical centerpiece bouquets, a sophisticated buffet set up, and my favorite, a live jazz band!  The music was awesome!  At some point, the husband went on stage and sang a song to his wife.  It was all so romantic!  The restaurant itself lived up to my expectations.  It seemed to be a little bit of everything with something for everyone.  I saw foreign expats with t-shirts and shorts, young early twenty somethings with fashionable casual wear, a local family dressed to the nine, several couples ranging from young to old in casual to semi-formal clothing, and everyone seemed to fit in perfectly. 
My mango margarita came in a martini glass with a garnish of lemon and tasted fine though I was in the mood for huge margarita glass complete with salt.  I ordered a mixed seafood platter with fried calamari, shrimp and fish, and a garden salad, and Christian had the fillet of beef brochettes with white rice.  It was all delicious and I will definitely return to sample some of the nice sandwiches from the menu.


Quartier Latin Brasserie, located in Place Boyer is a nice casual dining restaurant with an assortment of french dishes and extensive wine list.  It seems to be a favorite spot for expats,and it sometimes has live bands.  The food was good, and the bill what you would expect but what I like most about it is the structure itself.  It's an old style Haitian gingerbread house complete with the wood floors and beams and tall windows.  In contrast, Barak is more of a bar/disco than a restaurant with a huge bar, and at least 4 or 5 big flat screen televisions, a small dance floor and an urban feel.  It's definitely a place to meet with friends or indulge in happy hour, so stick to finger foods for nibbling as they taste the best.

As many of you know, August 15th was the patron saints day of Les Cayes, Petit-Goave, Cap-Haitien and some other cities around the country.  While most people headed out to their favorite province to celebrate, we headed out to Kenscoff for a nice relaxing day in the mountains.  What was supposed to be a day outing actually started at 3pm since we slept in and procrastinated all day.  The plan was originally to stop by Boutilliers, Fort Jacques, Fermathe then Kenscoff but given our late departure we just stopped by Fermathe for our first plate of griot and continued to Kenscoff for some more and of course the pièce de résistance: café du soir!  For those of you familiar with the stuff, you know that the only place to get it is "kay Sovè".  When we got there, it was closed (bummer!) but right next door bright and inviting was "Kay Sovè Fils, West Indies". 
His son informed us that Sovè is so old he could no longer run the business so he passed on the recipe to his son who is following in his footsteps.  The small cup of cafe du soir is 25gdes, it's about 4oz.  If you don't know what cafe du soir is, the best way to describe it is a slightly sweet concoction of steeped herbs and spices and maybe some fruit in local kleren.  No one knows the recipe but it looks like coke and tastes great!  As we sat on the business's steps enjoying our drinks and the cool temperature we nibbled on some mais boukanen, and some kann anana while watching the activity around us.  The place has been updated and now has a designated area built for the machann griot, a structure that looks like an overgrown gazeebo and doubles as a round about, and motorcycles all around since there is also a station for taxi moto.  So we spent a few hours entertained by the going ons of a moun fou poet equipped with a megaphone and spouting poetry in perfectly good french, and a guy named blan, who kept wanting to take pictures with us.  He told us about a club called Rustik further up in the mountains where "mulat al pran plezi yo".  His words exactly.  I thought he was making it up until I confirmed with a friend of mine that it's a cool club with an exclusive loyal clientele.  All in all, it was a really nice afternoon and we were so stuffed that we did not even need to eat dinner.

Now that we have moved out of the hotel, we'll probably not go to restaurants so often, but there are still tons to discover.  So whenever I hit a new spot I'll keep you posted!


Christian's Corner
Hello it's my turn now.  We went to lots of restaurants and tasted lots of food.  But my favorite restaurant is Mr.Grill and my favorite food at Mr.Grill are chicken kebabs.  My favorite dessert is from the hotel, it's so hard to choose which dessert is the best.  I went  to some restaurants that had water bags hanging from trees or the roof so my mom asked the waiter what they were and he said the water bags keeps the bugs away.  That's all from Christian Corner.




Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Carnaval and more!


Carnaval des fleurs took place the last weekend in July, and being such a huge fan of course Christian and I were there.  I just couldn't wait to see him experience carnaval in Haiti for the first time.  Everything went well as far as we were concerned.  I was impressed with the organization of the event.  The side streets leading to Champ de Mars were closed to vehicles, pedestrian access only.  Parking was available in the near vicinity, the stands were very colorful, and at 4:55pm the siren sounded to announce the beginning of the parade which was scheduled to start at 5pm.  I was really pleased to see so many squads of public safety and security teams patrolling the streets, there were policemen on bicycles and roller blades, first response red cross teams, boy/girl scouts troops, security teams from city hall, and posted in strategic places were trucks of specialized police.  We hung out on the "Flesh Kann" stand (a brand of sugar).  It was located right across from Sakapfet, Bongu, and TNH stands. 
The parade was wonderful!  Christian's favorites were the "boeufs" which he called "whip crackers", and the bands.  Mine were the all female rara bands playing as well as any male group, and Boukman Eksperyans with "Pawol Tafia".  But the song on everyone's lips and played by virtually every rara was Team Lobey's "Lobey sou lobey".  By the end of the night Christian could sing the popular chorus.  Everyone had a great time and even a freak thunderstorm did not dampen anyone's enthusiasm, if anything it allowed people to dance in the rain and entertain others!

In other news, I was recommended a barber shop for Christian who needed a haircut badly.  The place is called Milano Hair Styling and located on the fourth floor of complexe Belvedere.  When we got there I was shocked to see that this is not your average barbershop, this was more like a ritzy salon in L.A.! First of all it was a full service hair salon decorated all in white with bright orange accents and uniformed workers.  One side of the wall was lined with tables and women having their mani/pedis, half of them with drop down hair dryers drying their hair.  The barber was tucked in his corner and the waiting room had swinky white leather sofas.  The clientele was a mix of locals and expats, white, yellow, brown you name it. The haircut cost $US15,  a wash and set is $US 15, a relaxer is $US 70 and I think the mani/pedi is around $US20.  



Restaurants - So we sampled more food from various restaurants.  The taboule from Fior di Latte was ridiculously good, pizza from Muncheez was awesome, and their chicken wings were finger licking good.  They have various flavors and it's worth the cost if you're in the mood for good chicken wings.  I also lunched at Chicken Fiesta that sells chicken wings and chinese food.  Their full menu is on facebook and they deliver.  At Mr. Grill I tried their "gesiers grilles" appetizer and Christian loved it. (I don't translate everything!).  We also discovered Belfwi, a new frozen yogurt/sweet crepes/fresco/smoothies place.  They have fancy fresco with fruit in it.  And one of my favorite places so far is Rebo Espresso, Haiti's answer to Starbucks.  Besides all the yummy coffee confections including an alcoholic coffee on the menu, they offer amazing sandwiches and paninis, pastries, and items "du terroir", packages of assorted tablettes, cassave and mamba, papita veritab, and more.  One word of caution...do look at your bill closely.  In addition to the 10% TCA (tax), most places charge a service fee between 10-15%.  wouldn't want anyone to double tip!

Random remarks - A day at the pool of Hotel Montana is still a nice activity.  In addition to the wonderful view and the great pool, you can also partake of the breakfast or dinner buffet for $US 18, or you can opt to just buy something and hangout pool side for free, if not just spring for the $US 4 to use the pool.  I think Karibe hotel and a few more around town offer similar deals.  There is a new road going from Petion-ville to route Freres near the Police academy, at the beginning of Tabarre.  It's a great time saver because you skip the traffic on Rte de freres, however it is tight in some spots with ravines on the side of the road and no guard rails.  Think of the road to Jacmel, if you can manage that you'll have no problems.  There is a great Roots program this weekend Ram/Boukman Eksperyans at Karibe, although I'd love to go the $US40 price tag is just a tad unreasonable.  When people complain about "la vi che" they are not lying.  Things are not cheap in Haiti and depending on your lifestyle it gets more and more expensive.  I remember the days when a brand new 500 gourdes bill would buy you so much.  Today, it's barely enough for dinner for two at a modest restaurant.  I had a handful of the 5 gourdes coin "adoken" and was told that I should use it for a tap tap or at a gas station because people no longer want to accept them.  Ala koze!  On a positive note, the container with my car and personal effects arrived on monday.  Now I just have to see how long it will take to actually get it cleared and delivered.  I'll keep you posted.

Christian's corner
The wedding cake from Marie Beliard (it was not served!)
Hi again and welcome back to Christian's corner!  Today I'm going to talk about Carnaval and much more.  At Carnaval there was singing in the rain, dancing in the rain, and my favorite part was the whip crackers.  They were so cool and amazing :o .!  My mom bought me two lolly pops, bags of popcorn, and one pack of gum.(oh yeah, Alex if you're reading this, at Carnaval I was with your dad.) ;) So my mom and I went to this frozen yogurt place and they had delicious frozen yogurt, snow-cones, and ices. They were so good.  I went to this new barber and every single boy that is reading this should go there because the man that's doing it makes it feel like a cloud and they wash your hair too!  That day my mom and I went to a wedding and at the wedding my mom and her friend reunited while I had to reunite with her daughter Adrianna.  On Sunday I went to the pool with Adrianna at some fancy hotel.  Well that's it from Christian's corner